Dolphin Tales

Thanks to everyone that has called, texted and emailed to inquire about how we’re doing!

We are in Annapolis at a helix mooring off City Dock. We took down sails yesterday and plan to take down Bimini and dodger today or as as we lean more about expected winds. We have taken a hotel room a few blocks from the waterfront to store electronics and the Admiral if the Captain orders her departure from Dolphin. It is highly likely the Harbor Master will order the moorings “closed” when the winds get up to 40 MPH, in which case we can stay on the mooring at our own risk but have to keep the boat manned. When this happens the Captain will determine the fate of keeping the Admiral on board. For those of you that know me well, being asked to leave is not something I will take easily!

We are on one of five helix mooring in a row closest to the city dock said to be screwed 30′ into the ground. I say “said to be” because we are getting a lot of conflicting information from the Harbor Master and his summer helpers…very frustration! There are 2 vessels on either side of us; a 50′ Cat, “Thosyma”, Captained by a young couple from Germany; and a 45’+ heavy seaworthy catch, “Barn Owl”, from Curaco , Captained by a hearty French Canadian fellow that’s been living aboard for 19+years since his wife left him. He informed us he is looking for a First Mate, anyone interested? He’s lived through many a tropical storm/hurricane and appears to be taking Sandy with a grain of salt! We shared our cell numbers with both Captains and agreed to monitor VHF 68 if we need to communicate during the storm.

At this sighting there are two other vessels on mushroom moorings (said to be 100lb) in the field with us, a small Cape Dory from Ontario NY ( they run a small summer beach front Inn on Sodus Point!) and a 42′ center cockpit Irwin Catch.

Based on our position (see images below) we are fairly well protected by land and buildings from NNW winds through NNE but there is a bit of fetch for winds out of the E from across the inlet of the bay. Fortunately we don’t expect much of that.

There is conflicting info about storm surge. The Harbor Master says no surge is expected as the winds are expected out of the NNW thru NNE however trucks dropped sand in Ego Alley yesterday so folks could bag and carry. The water level in this area is very close to street level so several of the sewer drains over flow at a typical high tide. And most of the docks around us are fixed. Seems strange given the regular flooding this area is prone to. Like in New England the Governor has declared a SOE and everything is closed tomorrow and Tuesday.

The Captain added a 2nd pendant line and chaffing gear this afternoon. As of this moment we are resting comfortably but a bit nervous with anticipation. Its been a “hurry up and wait” game. Temps outside are around 55 degrees with a gentle rain and 65 inside, blowing about NNE 14-17kts. While the temp will remain constant thru the night, the winds are expected to reach NNW 25 kts by 08:00 and WNW 40 kts with gusts over 60 kts by 17:00 on Monday. The wind generator is humming!!

Inside, Dolphin is a toasty warm 68 degrees. I’ve just pulled banana bread out of the oven in anticipation of a simple breakfast tomorrow morning as winds start to pick up.

We will do our best to keep you informed. I mentioned I took a video of the area from shore but can’t yet figure out how to load the large file. So stay tuned!

Thanks so much for all your well wishes and prayers! Our thoughts and prayers are with all of you as well. Be safe! Seems no one will escape Sandy’s wrath!
N&A

Stephenson’s Hardware selling storm supplies. Power outages are expected and happen with many storms they get!

The town dumped sand and shovels in the neighborhood on Saturday so people can fill their own sand bags in preparation for the anticipated storm surge, also a pretty regular occurrence.

Sand bags at entrances

Last night this waterfront bar was hop’in til last call at 1:45AM despite 15kt wind. Today they are closed and ready for Sandy.

St Mary’s Church on Saturday AM

Inside St Mary’s where we have become frequent visitors!

We are near the pink “x”. This gives you an idea of our location from a bigger prospect, the next zooms in a bit closer.

The upper right hand corner of this shot is the Navy football field. Dolphin is actually located at the red ball, not where the pin lands!

We left the mooring at 09:20 this am…it was hard to get up after all those oysters !…. to cloudy and overcast skies with calm seas. The Chesapeake was deserted except for this tall ship…with a pink hull! I’ve seen Mary Kay pink cady’s, can you earn pink Schooners too?

We crossed the Bay from east to west, under the Chesapeake Bay Bridge arriving in Annapolis after a short three hour trip.

To date the Captains log shows we have traveled 435 nautical miles. That translates to 86.2 hours of motoring! Yes, it would be easier to drive, but just think what we would have misses!!

We arrived in Annapolis at 12:30 and picked up a town mooring close to Ego Alley. We met the Asst Harbor Master, David who successfully passed Nina’s interview and endless list of questions about the protocol in anticipation of Sandy’s arrival. At this point we are monitoring several weather apps to stay informed of Sandy’s path. Right now there are a number of projected paths, most taking Sandy northeast of the Chesapeake. We are thinking we will ride her out in Annapolis. But we’ll continue to track her progress with frequent updates multiple times a day. We will keep you informed of our plan! Let’s hope the Bahamas are still intact when she passes!

As the sun shone by 13:00 Adrien rowed us to the dock and we went on a walking tour of downtown Annapolis. Adrien stopped to listen to Alex Haley tell a story to the neighborhood children. It’s commemorates the spot where Kunta Kinte was brought to this country and sold into slavery.

We visited the historical center, walked up Main Street to Church Circle, over to the State Capital building, and across to the lovely grounds of the Naval academy.

With just a half hour before closing we quickly toured the Naval Academy Museum seeing an impressive collection of 1600-1800’s ship model. The highlight was a collection of ship models crafted by French POW’s during the Napoleonic wars. They used bones from their meat rations,v straw, wood and anything els they could salvage from their surroundings to make these very intricate life-like models, then sold them to purchases clothing and food while imprisoned. As we were leaving the campus we heard a group of cadets practicing the bagpipes on the lawn. It was a treat to sit and listen!

As we headed back to the boat we noticed that a neighboring boat, “After Four” hailed from Warwick, RI,….friend’s of Ed and Deb from Harbor Light Marina. Again, a small world! We hope to enjoy a cocktail with them tomorrow!

Back on Dolphin,we toasted the sunset and enjoyed chicken with basil cream and asparagus for dinner with a bottle of Chateau St Jean Chardonnay…delicious! N&A

We cast off at 09:25 in calm waters and winds. There was not a ripple in the water save our wake. The cockpit was warm and the aroma of brewing coffee seeped it’s way to the helm. As we retraced our route back thru the Sassafras to the Chesapeake we passed rolling green meadows offset by beautiful homesteads and autumn foliage. Once in the Chesapeake it was another motor boat ride, with sunny blue skies. It felt like a New England summer day.


The interesting thing we’ve learned about the northern part of the Chesapeake is that there is a lot of shallow water along both shores that restricts sailors. Once you venture out of the main shipping channel you could find yourself in 4 to 5 feet of water if you’re not careful; Dolphin needs 5.5′ of water! So to go 15 miles as the crow flies could take us 30 miles via Dolphin! Such was the case getting to Rock Hall. We could see our destination 2 miles to the East but had to travel 9 miles southeast and then north to get there! While we were on this detour we noticed a black hulled Sailboat attempting a shortcut! We called them to ask if they had “local knowledge ” of a short cut over the 4 ft sand bar ? They replied they didn’t; and, appreciated the call which prevented them from going aground ! Shortly after the transmission a local boater called and confirmed we had the correct course. Phew!

We slipped into Swan Creek Marina in Gratitude, MD and grabbed a mooring. While a neighbor, it’s a bit northwest of Rock Hall. This secluded river is very reminiscent of our Hadley’s Harbor; quiet, remote, calm and peaceful. Magnificent homesteads dot the coastline between fields of tall grass and man-made floating rustic duck-blinds here and there; and again, not a ripple in the water unless a boat goes by!

Once secure we went ashore to meet the marina owners, Cindy and John. They are 3rd generation marina owners and very knowledgeable about most of the Chesapeake Bay Area. They told us about their Marine son returning from Afghanistan this weekend! He trained to be the lead in an IED advance retrieval team. Can you imagine your son on the front line detecting bombs? I’m not sure I could sleep at night. We thanked them for what their son is doing for all of us.

We got walking directions to Waterman’s Crab House for dinner, 1.5 miles away with instructions to take the beach road rather than the highway. Well, that means that as we walked the beach road we got lots of sunset pictures to share. Each was as good as the last! Now I know I will never get tired of these beautiful moments!

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We enjoyed a delicious dinner of raw oysters, Oysters Rockfeller, crab soup and a crab cake dinner complimented with Yuenging Lager, Nina’s new favorite beer! Of course a dinner does not go by without meeting someone and on this evening we met John and Marlyn on “Sea Lebrery II” from Haven Harbor. They offer us a ride back to our marine but the mile and a half starlight walk was just what we needed!

Gratitude’s Swan Creek Marina was such an accommodating stop. On Wednesday John drove us to the local market and the market delivery man drive us back! We took a late afternoon dinghy cocktail cruise up Swan Creek, waving to the transient anchored boaters in this peaceful protected area. On the way back we caught this get sunset shot of Dolphin!

John and Cindy also told us about the All-you-can-eat Oyster Dinner at Wolf Bay Restaurant in Rock Hall. How could we resist?!! Hildeguard, the owner picked us up and brought us to her restaurant! We gorged on raw oyster, oysters casino, rockfeller and fried oysters…34/each! We needed to walk the mile and a half back to Dolphin to insure a good night’s sleep!
N

PS. Adrien often reminds me that oysters are aphrodisiacs, but just want to let you know that none of these Chesapeake Bay Oysters worked!!

On Saturday we departed at 08:15, for a 25 mile journey, motoring west to the end of the C&D Canal into the Chesapeake with a slight .5 kt current against us. Skies were clear, the water calm and “Thistle” not far behind. As the canal opened to the Bay the sights were beautiful with rolling wooded hills, beautiful water front homes and mansions, and for the first time some vessels traveling close by. The tall ship was headed to Baltimore for an afternoon sailing regatta, and the container ship headed to the canal in route to Phili. I snapped the shot of “Thistle” (44′ Seguin)sailing by her side to give you a sence for how large these ships are compared to our humble vessels! No wonder they can’t see us and don’t move out of the way!

While we motored most of the way, as we altered course to approach the entrance to the Sassafras the wind picked up a bit and allowed us to raise the jib and turn off the engine. It was so quiet for the first time in so long I forgot what it was like to just sail!! “Thistle” caught this shot of Dolphin.

We arrived at Georgetown Yacht Basin, after a leisurely sail about 10 miles up the river. It’s a nice protected marina that had just what we needed; moorings, fuel, water, showers, laundry, a launch service and bikes to ride to the grocery and liquor stores about a mile and a half away. And friends we met in Atlantic Highlands were there too, “Shine” & “Night Cap II”. It was nice to catch up with them and share stories about the last leg of the journey.

Each day we took a long walk or a bike ride. It was a pretty funny sight to see Adrien ride a girls bike with two baskets on back, a bell on the handle bars, a flag on a long pole rising up from the back fender to alert motorist and a seat so low he could not straighten out his legs when he pedaled. Wished I’d gotten a picture! And me, I’m not going to tell you how long it’s been since I rode a bike!)

We reprovisioned, caught up on laundry and did a few chores, read and relaxed. I honestly don’t know where the time goes, but it goes fast! We enjoyed crab cakes and our first bowl of Atlantic Snapper Turtle Soup (Delicious!) while watching the first half of the Pats vs Jets game on Sunday afternoon at the historic Kitty Knight Inn & Tavern. Didn’t want to leave but the launch, “Two Toots” stopped at 18:00.

Our plan was to leave on Monday morning until a 15 minute chore turned in to a half day event. We needed to find a zip lock bag of wires to reposition and secure a hose in the engine room. But couldn’t remember where it got stashed. Adrien looked in every hold from bow to stern and then I looked behind him, just in case. Before we knew it an hour had passed and still we couldn’t find the darn bag. Fellow boaters must know what this is like; you can see what you’re looking for in 10 different places on the boat but darned if you can find it! Now, is this a boating thing or an age thing? Please respond if you know what I’m talking about!!

So, McGuyver’s improvise was a wire hanger…they always come in handy. And, as luck would have it the 3rd night on the mooring was free! The Captain is happy! And we enjoyed sunset cocktails, a delicious dinner and caught up on the new season of Revenge!

After a restful night it was time to play on land! The morning was cloudy with some showers that cleared up by noon and we were off to explore the area. On our way to shore we stopped to chat with Captain Paul on “Darkest Africa'” a 20 ft Flicka from Shaws Marina in Dighton, MA. He’s single handing his way to the Bahamas; but, earlier in June began a voyage to Africa to visit his Daughter in the Peace Corps. Strong storms forced him to turn back and select a safer destination. Can you imagine venturing to Africa on a most seaworthy 20′ vessel? Being from Shaw’s Marina, he knew “Imagine” and several other of our boating friends. Such a small world !!!

Once ashore we explored the streets of Chesapeake City with charming 18th and 19th century homes and shops. The waterfront park offered great views of the Canal and at the dock we met Linda, Grinnell and their daughter Hanna on their beautiful sv “Thistle” from ME. As this was also their first journey south, we had instant rapport and invited them to join us later for dinner and to share stories.

We continued our walk around the cove to the Canal Museum and learned about the evolution of the canal and toured the original steam engines that powered the water wheel to control the locks. The wheel they used in the late 1800’s moved 12,000 gallons a minute! As we were leaving Adrien asked a fellow going into the canal control building if we could get a tour of the control room. Interestingly he was just returning from Cape Cod Canal where he spent the week inspecting the Borne Bridge. He introduced us to the Controller, Joe, who showed us around him desk adorned with more than 10 camera screens with various views of the canal. It looked much like an air traffic control desk. He explained the different systems he uses to track activity and communicate with vessels transiting the canal. Sadly traffic has declined due to the economy and the ever growing size of the cargo & container vessels, now too big to use the canal. They had a diagram of the new cargo carriers that showed the various parts of the vessels. We learned that they offer swimming pools, jacuzzis, movie rooms, libraries, restaurants, etc to the crews…they travel in comfort!!

Then back to the dink by way of the Chesapeake Inn for Happy Hour where we met Andy the Harbor Master, Chip and Penny from the local marina, and a famous Captain that many of us know and love! We had a delightful dinner on the dock and charted a course to leave for the Sassafras River in the AM with “Thistle” joining us!

I have to say that no matter where we go and who we’ve met, everyone has been so enjoyable to talk with! Strangers willingness to share tips on favorite spots, safe anchorages and personal experiences, have made this such a pleasurable experience. I could never have imagined what an incredible feeling this gives us…and it’s only just begun! N

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Our extended stay in Atlantic Highlands was so enjoyable it was difficult to leave; but, with a forecast of a light NW wind and calm seas, it was time to move on! We departed at first light with 2 other sailing vessels headed to Atlantic City or Cape May depending on conditions and the crews stamina.

Sunrise over Sandy Hook

Once the sun rose and warmed the cockpit it became a comfortable morning. In fact, the Captain could be seen on top deck in a bathing suit doing chores! The trip was uneventful until our first feathered guest arrived! A Dark Eyed Junko landed on deck, poked around a bit and then joined us in the cockpit! What a delight to see him up close! Very inquisitive, he hopped around the dash, forward and aft before decided to rest in the sun and warmth of the enclosure. When it was time to go, he unsuccessfully searched for a way out until Adrien guided him in his gentle hand to the opening. He was quite comfortable being photographed up close and very calmly accepted a guiding hand. Junko’s visit our feeders on land all the time but we could never got close enough to take a few pictures much less hold one. What a treat! We had six other visits (Junkos and Black Capped Chickadees) as the afternoon wore on, each as delightful as the last. One even enjoyed hopping into the Mum plant to hang out.

Feathered Guests
We motored along at between 5- 6 kts about 2-3 miles off the coast. By mid afternoon the winds picked up, became choppy and Dolphin was taking waves on the nose. There was just enough movement to make reading or doing chores down below uncomfortable so I was a captive audience in the cockpit. Let me tell you that the NJ coast line is pretty nondescript and boring. I’d liken it to bouncing on a teeter totter watching grass grow! Catnaps came easily!

As we did not want to arrive in Atlantic City in the dark we had decided we would go straight to Cape May. Of course I thought about food in advance, so no frills pre-prepared sandwiches and salad was the menu of the day. At about 18:00 a thin line of lights dressed the coastline. Adrien captured a beautiful sunset on watch while I took the first snooze to prepare for our overnight sail.

About 20:00 the Atlantic City lights looked like an oasis rising out of the black sky. We watched as it got larger and more colorful, passing on starboard at 23:00.

Atlantic City

Adrien got some shuteye while I reset a cooking timer for 15 min intervals. At each interval I was instructed to stand forward of the helm for several minutes, with the instrument lights behind me to get my night vision, so I could identify lights of any vessels that may be around us. Then I’d check the instruments (GPS to compare our auto pilot track to the waypoints, engine temperzture, fuel level, voltage level, etc.) Then consult the Marine Traffic app to identify any ships that might be headed our way and Navionics app to confirm your course and speed synced with the GPS. That routine took about 7 minutes, then I had a few minutes to myself to read or catch up on email, etc. We agreed to take our shut eye shifts in the cockpit so that meant I had to monitor the cooking timer as it reached “0” so I could reset it before the alarm went off and woke Adrien, since he did that for me! It sounds excruciating; but, it was actually a good way to pass the time, since I had to stay away….. until I saw bright white lights in front of us that appeared to come out of nowhere!

My heart skipped a beat! In the black night it was difficult to determine if it was moving and how far away it was. I skipped my repeated protocol and went right to Marine Traffic….no vessels out there transmitting AIS. Was the app working right? I’ve become so reliant on the app to keep us informed. I’d recently read that tugs, barges, etc can not see sailing vessels from 5 miles away, yet when traveling at average hull speed it could take them over 6 miles to make a very slight course change. Were we in their track? I couldn’t detect much with the binoculars, my eyes still untrained to distinguish different types of vessels, but maybe a fishing vessel? Do they have nets out? Do I hail them on VHF? Should I wake the Captain… YES.

From a snoring sleep he jumped up and with a quick look identified it as a fishing boat with working lights in deck. The light went out as quickly as it appeared and they were gone from view. I’d come upon my first black ship; fishing ships that don’t transmit AIS signals and keep their lights off until they have work to do on deck. Thankfully nothing else eventful on my watch!

Our plan was to stop at Cape May but knowing we were on course to arrive in darkness; a risky proposition in an unfamiliar, tight and dark harbor, the Captain opted to adjust our course and speed to grab the favorable currents up the Delaware River. We arrived at the mouth of the Delaware at 06:15 to another beautiful sunrise. Will we ever get tired of these? Thankfully the bouncy ride subsided. With sun, seas and current behind us we literally flew up the Delaware with the genoa flying, exceeding 9 kts.

Sunrise on the Delaware River

We arrived at the C&D Canal at 13:30 and once again favorable currents so even though the Captain was tired and the Admiral beyond cranky, we passed through the canal quickly at 8 kts. With heavy eyelids we opted for safe refuge in Chesapeake City at 15:30. With 33 hours of motoring and the never ending sound of the engine behind us, we set an anchor watch and slept in peace and quiet! Thank God that leg of the trip is over!

Bridges on the C&D Canal

We left Sandy Hook on Wednesday at 06:30, motored down the coast of NJ on a calm windless day. Passed Atlantic City at 23:00, entered the Delaware River at 06:15 Thursday morning, motor sailed up to the C & D Canal, entered the canal at 13:30, arriving at Chesapeake City at 15:30 where we lowered anchor. Currents were with us where they needed to be, averaging 8kts in the river and canal.

Glad that’s over!!!

We’re exhausted and going to sleep! More details to follow….

Just in case anyone in particular is worried that we might not fulfill our civic duty, here is evidence of our completing our absentee ballots! (Yes, CV, we voted for the right candidates!)

When Adrien doesn’t like the candidate options he lets it be known by volunteering my name ….thanks Adrien!

Thanks Sue for hand carrying our signed & sealed confidential ballots back to submit to the Clinton Town Hall! N

With the last few days of early mornings and late nights it was great to sleep in today. We woke to sunny skies and the promise of warmer weather. D’s enclosed cockpit was 72 degrees and warmer than the rest of the boat, the perfect spot for morning coffee! We did a few chores and took the launch to shore about 11:00.

We heard the town of Atlantic Highlands was kind to boaters with laundry,supermarket, assorted restaurants, shops and movie theater all close by. It did not disappoint! It was a short walk to everything we could have wanted and a charming village of brick walkways adorned with lush flowering planters, lovely homes and beautiful lookouts of Sandy Hook, The Bay and Manhattan skyline. They also had some neat happenings like a Dessert Theater with short plays by local actors and a dessert menu. The Pig Out BBQ restaurant and bar was offering a Christmas Pin Up Photo Shoot Night …. Get your hair and make-up done, slip into a slinky outfit (barely), take a provocative pose and have your pinup photos taken to give as a Christmas gift to someone special. Of course food and beverages are provided! ($200) Now ladies, wouldn’t that be funnnnn! Especially after a drink or two! Wish they did creative stuff like that in our neck of the woods!!! (Note to self… Call The Spillway when we get back to see if they might consider holding an event!!)

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Al and Robin offered to give us a ride through town and to West Marine for the fuse we’ve been looking for. Enjoying a warm, gentle breeze so we opted to walk back along Ocean Ave & Bayside Drive by beautiful homes and harbor look outs. About a 2.5 mile walk back; it was all down hill ;).

We stopped at the lovely Mount Mitchill Scenic Overlook, now a memorial park honoring the local residents of Monmouth County that lost their lives on 9/11. The site was originally a memorial for an early 1800’s explorer, situated on the highest natural elevation on the Atlantic coastal plain providing beautiful views of Sandy Hook, Raritan Bay and the New York skyline.

When the towers were hit people came to this lookout from miles around to watch what was happening in the minutes, hours and days that followed. There were many local residents that commute to work by ferry to the city that lost their lives. Each victim was remembered on the base of a sculpture depicting an eagle holding a piece of a metal beam salvaged from the WTC in it’s talons. Interestingly and sadly, most of the victims were in their 30’s and 40’s. We were all riveted to our TV’s as events unfolded but can you imagine watching from your backyard? It was very moving.

Back at the YC we took showers and enjoyed a quick pizza lunch. We stopped by ” Nightcap II” and met Ruth and Darrell, just having sailed their way down from Nova Scotia. Coincidentally they transited through NYC just 45 minutes before we did, and are headed south on a similar track. We also met Lynn and Captain Scott on SV “Shine” with similar plans. We extended invitations to meet on D Monday morning at 09:00 for coffee to discuss a transit plan. The trip from Sandy Hook to Cape May will cover about 115miles, ie 23 hours @ 5kts, ie. overnight sail. It will be much more interesting to travel together,easier to stay focused and of course, safer! Hope we can coordinate!

Back to town as the sun was setting, Adrien indulged me with a movie, “Taken 2”, (very good with Liam Neeson), then a walk to the local market for a few provisions including coffee cake for tomorrow mornings guests! Back to D for the night. Still delightfully mild temperature with clear skies. We can sleep with the hatch open! Strong SW winds/gusts continue so we are staying put another day! N